The Solo Traveler

I just wrote this whole blog, and then my screen went dead, so I'm gonna try this one more time. The last version was probably a lot more enthusiastic, but I only have a short time before this place closes, so here goes.

This is Jodhpur, the blue city. This was taken from atop the fort that's high above the town. I like this city. It's a little calmer and more manageable then the other cities I've been to (which isn't saying much for India, but every bit helps.)

In Jodhpur there is a guy who has a stand that only makes Omelettes. He goes through over 1500 eggs a day! His specialty is this one with saffron, cardomon, and red chilis. It was delicious.

Also here is a special lassi drink they make. This one has Shayne's name all over it. Yogurt, saffron, cardomon and a big wad of whipped butter on the top! I felt my arteries closing as it went down.

We left Jodhpur for Jaisalmer. This is all the way east in the dessert, and about 50km from Pakistan. Angie and I went on a camal ride in the sunset through the dunes, which was pretty nice. The kid who took us was like 15, and would make the camel fart. Since I was riding behind, it wasn't so funny.

A little shopping, and an overwhelmed Angie in the blanket store. You can see her head spinning from trying to make a decision.

Cows are everywhere here. They're all over the street, just wondering through traffic and sitting in medians. This one pulled up to the local stand for something to eat. People don't even seem to notice them.
I took this from our hotel in Jaisalmer. This is the fort, which looks like an oasis when you arrive to it after driving hours through nothing in the desert. It's a great little city, and I see why people like it so much.

We stayed in this 300 year old haveli that was pretty cool, especially after staying in some pretty scary places. This is where I coined the phrase

"There's clean, and then there's Indian clean. Two completely different meanings of the word"

This place was definitely Indian clean, but I'll take it.

Angie left today, and I am officially a solo traveler. I head to Udapur tomorrow, and hit the road with all the backpackers. More to come soon.

(by the way, the last version of this posting was a lot more inspired. Kim, why isn't there a damn command-Z on a PC???)

The Spell

Angie told me that Bill Clinton says there are 2 kinds of people in the world. Those who have seen the Taj Mahal, and those who haven't. That really says it all. It's like nothing I've ever encountered. Something about the shape and the color, and the way the light just hits it. Amazing. Keith had asked for a few pics of it, so here's another one.

Today I really felt like I was in India. All the talk about filth and the negatives gave way to feeling comfortable here. We arrived in Rajasthan yesterday, which is a state mostly in the desert. it's enormous and there is tons to see. In Jodhpur, it all came together. Millions of people everywhere, cows and goats and dogs on the street, the overwhelming feeling you're soimewhere you've never been before. The market was full of activity- people selling everything, and colors that were out of control. It wasn't stressful, it was exciting. I finally got it.

We stayed in Jaipur yesterday at a guest house run by this awesome couple. The man, who went be "the Colonel" was a really interesting guy.

I mean, look at him! I went in last night to ask to use his computer. We started talking and ended up chatting for 2 hours (I never even got to go online!) One of the stories he told me was really enlightning. He said there was a guy that started staying with him almost every year about 10 years ago. All his friends always ask him why he always wants to go to India. They say it's dirty, it's crowded, it's hot, there are mosquitos. All the same things people said to me! But these people have never been here! What they all don't see is the good stuff- the genuineness of the people, the honesty, the respect for one another, the colors, the food. I think I totally get it now.

Ok, so it's dirty. And it's crazy. And it's chaotic. True. And nothing better makes this point then this picture:

What do you do when you're looking for something with a sign like this?

Today when we were driving, we saw this truck full of people in the back:

But look closer at the picture below. We were shocked to see filmmaker Al Maysles with the group!

And here's one more, just cause I like the picture.

Thanks to everyone for writing to me on the blog. It's really cool to hear from you all. When Angie leaves on Saturday I've got almost 3 weeks by myself. Keep em coming.

Photos

As evidenced by Shayne and Susan's obsession with magazines like Star and US Weekly, pictures obviously speak a thousand words. I chose a few here that I thought were worth sharing.

Fumiko had asked for some food pictures. The Tandoori Red Snapper, naan and rice pictured above was so good, we had it 3 times from the same place. We were in Goa at the beautiful Paloem beach, where it was truly picture perfect. Marcia and I might wager to say one of the top beaches in the world. The drawback being that it was undeveloped and we felt like we were camping (Angie had a bit of a shock when she walked into the bathroom for the first time, as we all did.) But the food in Goa was unbelievable, not just the fish above, but some curry's that were out of this world.

This shot would be better if you could smell it. This was in Cochin in Souther India (in the state of Kerala.) What you see on the ground is all ginger, drying in the sun. The aroma was lovely and a nice contrast on some of the other smells we had been privy to (I wont share that with you right now.)

This one was taken from the houseboat on the Kerlala rivers. It was just another day in the life...many people either bathing or doing laundry, as this woman is. One of the great things I was looking to forward to in India was the colors, as evidenced here by the contrast of her blue sarong against the muted background.

These two were taken in Paloem. Marcia and Angie enjoy some massage on the beach (don't they look relaxed?) I belive this cost them almost 25 cents for 20 minutes! Sonia, the girl above, came by often while we were on the beach to sell us her trinkets- bracelets and necklaces and crap like that. Marcia tried bargaining with her and the conversation went like this:

Marcia: "Let me see that one. How much?"

Sonia: "200 Rupees."

Marcia: "That's too much. I'll give you 100."

Sonia: "That below my cost. 200."

Lee: "Where did she learn the term below my cost??"

After the morning Yoga. I got to bring all the mats back.

I miss you all.

lee

Beauty and the Filth

Several years ago, my good friend David Phillips and I were in a restroom in Las Vegas (at least I think it was Las Vegas.) We went to wash our hands after taking care of some business when David shared some useful information with me. He told me that to truly clean your hands you have to wash with hot water and soap for at least two minutes. "2 minutes?!?" I exclaimed. "Yes, that's what they say." 30 seconds went by, and I pondered the thought until we hit the paper towel dispenser. I asked David "Do you really wash for two minutes? That would take forever!" He said, "No, but that's what they say you should do". I've gone to bed this past week thinking about the two minute rule and I've decided that the minimum here should 5 minutes. I wonder what David thinks.

I'm now in Goa. The first thing to mention is that is not nearly as filthy here as in the south. All things being relative, it's actually quite clean. Paloem beach is beautiful. It's off the beaten track, and on what they call the "independent traveler route". I believe that's because it's not built up, and it's a time consuming process to get there. But it's picture perfect- hot, but not humid...clear warm water...palm trees swaying onto the beach. When I spoke to Keith on the phone last night at about 6:30, I said I was going to take a picture while we were talking so he could be here with me. The one above was that picture.

Goa was the place that opens the Bourne Supremecy (or Identity, I can't remember, but it's the second one. They're hiding away in huts at the beginning and then there is a chase scene on some bridge...). Here is the hut we're staying in on the left (with a nice cold shower!)

The food in Goa deserves some mention here. It's truly incredible. Tandoori fish and curry's that words here cannot descibe. If you could be at the table while Marcia and I are eating, you'd get the point ("this is sooo fucking good" or "how do they make this?" or "the nan is so fluffy but crispy." Angie arrives today from Delhi, and after going to this same restaurant twice that we can't get enough, we'll take her there for dinner.

The Houseboat

Sorry about the picture here. I don't know how to flip it (I'm a mac guy, not a PC guy.) Anyway, in Kerala you can take these tours of the backwaters. The word backwater certainly doesn't conjure up pretty images, but it was actually really lovely. Canals link everything together through palm trees, homes, small towns and river life. We rented a houseboat for 22 hours and left at 11am, arriving at our destination at 9am the next morning. We rode on the boat all day watching the scenery and the people. Everybody waves. Either they were really fascinated by these two jews from New York, or they wave to everyone. It's anyone's guess. We slept on the boat and they cooked us our meals. Currys, rice, fruit. It was all delicious, and not one mosquito bite (of course, i'm getting bitten alive as i write this now.)

Where to begin

Today I thought about 5 different things to write about, but my jetlag is keeping me from thinking clearly. I'm in some crappy internet place in a town called Varkala,
in Kerala India. Kerala is the state, Varkala is the town. It's all the way in the south of the country. We're at the beach, staying on a cliff just above it. t's beautiful and peaceful, but that's a small pocket of what I've seen so far. India is loud, chaotic and crowded. I'm not gonna write too much now as it's hot in this internet place, and i feel like i'm being eaten up by mosquitos. I will tell you about something that happened yesterday though...

We took this 4 hour flight from Delhi after staying in some cruddy airport hotel for 9 hours when we arrived from NY. The flight was fine, but when we arrive Marcia had to go and see some temple or palace or something, that she heard was really cool. "Only 30km from the airport, then we go back up 45km to Varkala. Come on, it'll be so great." I reluctantly agreed, although I would have preferred coming right to Varkala and the beach then seeing this temple. Anyway, the 30km drive went through a zillion shitty towns, one after another. There were people everywhere. The taxi driver was like 70 years old and was honking randomely every few seconds. The windows were open, there was no a/c, and the other drivers were crazy. I saw my life pass before me at least 10 times. Marcia's gulping at the cars coming to close was not helping. The 30km ride ended up taking 3 hours, and when we got to the palace at 4:35 it had just closed.

Back in the shitty taxi, it took at least 4 hours on the same road, past the airport, and the same crappy towns. Our driver looked exhausted. I was miserable and somehow managed to fall asleep in the car. I was awakened to Marcia going "what the hell????" Someone had thrown their yogurt and tandoori dinner from the opposing traffic out the window and it landed through the window on Marcia and the cab driver. When I opened my eyes, I first thought that a bird had shit all over her, then I saw onions and some sort of meat or something. It was absolutely revolting. The driver stopped and tried to help clean her and the car up.

We finally got to our hotel and saw the beach, and it was beautiful. Marcia took a shower and we laughed for hours about the yogurt-tandoori incident. It was a really great way to start India.

Yes, I've gotten my shots

I wasn't going to post again until I actually got to India. It's just a few days before I leave and everyone keeps asking me if I'm nervous. So, I thought I would get in the rhythm by writing and address that. No, I'm really not too nervous... I'm pretty fucking excited. I've been talking to so many people about India lately that I can't not be jazzed up. I just wonder how I'm going to see it all in 5 weeks...

This world is crazy. I've been reading a lot of info about India on this Lonely Planet (travel book brand) forum called "The Thorn Tree." People post everything from "Does anybody know how long it takes to get from Pushkar to Mumbai" or "Be aware of the crazy lady on the beach in Goa selling rancid ice cream." I've had to pick through the postings just to find some good stuff, but there is tons of information. A month ago, this one woman posted about how she found this great car + driver that she highly recommends. I started emailing her personally and she's been incredibly helpful. She lives in Portland, Oregon and has been to India 3x in the last three years. It's been great, but I was just thinking about how it's so odd that I'm just emailing with this random woman in the world and taking her advice. The planet is just getting smaller and smaller.

The flight to Delhi from NYC leaves on Wednesday (yes John, it's direct, and it's just under 14 hours. I know you needed to know. And if the other Jon is reading, I'm flying on a 777 with 4 engines, I think.) I've been inoculated for just about everything, and I've got my Malaria pills ready to go. Marcia, my sister, leaves with me from NY and we're heading down to Southern India to a place called Kerala for a few days. It's got beaches and backwaters and tea plantations, so it sounds like a pretty great start to the trip. Marcia is with me for just under 10 days. We're going to then head up to Goa for more beach and apparently some pretty amazing Indian food (Goa cooks Indian with Portuguese influence.) At the point when Marcia leaves, my friend Angie joins in for another 10 days starting in Goa for a little more R&R before heading up to Rajasthan: dessert, lakes, more dessert, and lots of cites called "the Blue City" or "the Pink City."

Yeah, it's all overwhelming and crazy, and I still don't have too many pre-conceived notions, but I'm ready. And I'm psyched.

See you in India.